Roger Dubuis shows carbon Excalibur skeleton, plus new ladies pieces

The Excalibur Automatic Skeleton was debuted at SIHH 2015, the brand’s first non-tourbillon skeleton piece; for 2016,Roger Dubuis watches is updating it by coating the case in SMC, or carbon fibre sheet moulding compound.

Mostly used in aeronautics thanks to its lightweight properties, SMC gives the 42mm round case a sportier aesthetic. The mottled charcoal shade is a result of the production process, as SMC is made by compressing carbon fibres with resin and steel.

The trend for carbon in high-end watches is one you’d associate more readily with the likes of Richard Mille; it’s a first for Roger Dubuis.

new Roger Dubuis watches

 The Excalibur’s dial showcases the RD820SQ with an open-worked micro rotor and distinctive star-shaped bridges. Dauphine-shaped hands in gold are more legible than you might expect on a such a dramatic dial – the red accents are new, moving away from the monochrome look of the original.

Meanwhile, there are two new high jewellery models from Roger Dubuis: the Blossom Velvet Pink and the Velvet Secret Heart. The Blossom Velvet Pink has a mother-of-pearl dial with floral marquetry decoration.

Roger Dubuis ladies watches

 The 36mm pink gold case is lined with white diamonds, as is the interior tonneau-shaped dial from which the time is read. The flowers are actually sculpted from a thick sheet of Grand Feu enamel, and sit raised on the dial; the watch is limited to 88 pieces.

The Velvet Secret Heart, whilst still diamond-heavy, has an exciting technical aspect: it features a double retrograde jumping date on its deep blue dial. Two columns of Arabic numerals frame the interior tonneau-shaped dial (with Roman numerals) and a red crescent-tipped hand indicates the date.

2016 Roger Dubuis for women

When one hand reaches the bottom of its column, it jumps up and disappears whilst the second hand pops out at the top watches of the other column to take over.

A new calibre, the RD821B, ticks away inside; only 8 pieces will be released, but it’s interesting to see the Velvet collection being steered in a more serious direction.