Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Watches

There is a commonly used phrase within the watch community with regards to the watches produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre watches: “watchmaker’s watches,” the implication being that the market segment JLC fulfills is exclusively a niche for people who know exactly what they want, and know why “what they want” matters. Now, I would not fully argue for this sentiment or against it; certainly, Jaeger-LeCoultre has produced some astounding timepieces over the years, but there are plenty of other manufacturers that are at least as well known for producing pieces that satiate this desire for a “watch man’s watch.” All that said, the contemporary version of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic collection is without a doubt in my mind a collection of “watchmaker’s watches.”

vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches

First released, and shortly thereafter discontinued, in 1958, vintage examples of the Geophysic have become some of the more sought-after historical watches in recent times. The pieces were initially produced as part of a larger push by the Swiss watchmaking community to create tool watches for the scientists who needed them. In the years surrounding the Geophysic’s subsequent historical rise and fall, and its eventual transformation into the Geomatic collection, both the Rolex Milgauss (in 1956), and the Omega Railmaster (in 1957) were subsequently released — each of these watches with a similar goal as the Geophysic, to be the go-to watch for resisting magnetic fields. Within the short time frame of this vintage watch’s manufacturing, it visited both poles, traveled on the first nuclear-powered submarine, and was hailed as one of the most technologically advanced wristwatches of its time.

Today, we look at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s reinterpretation of this original piece, the Geophysic 1958. Released in 2014, the collection was produced in limited quantities in steel, yellow gold, and platinum. At 38.5 mm in diameter, these cheap watches are 3.5 mm larger than their vintage counterparts, but inside resides a movement that is just as interesting, if not more so. Powered by the automatic JLC caliber 898/1, the watch has a hacking seconds mechanism, extreme shock protection, a ceramic ball bearing system that avoids the need for lubrication, and (among many other features) an anti-magnetic cage to naturally protect the movement.

Aesthetically, each of the pieces’ cases have a mirror-polished finish for the front, and a brushed finish for the back; also, you should notice the solid caseback with interesting asymmetric globe design. On the textured white dial, for the steel and gold variations, is a cross-hair pattern, Arabic numerals for the quarter-hour markers, vintage-inspired sword hands with somewhat faux patina, and luminescent accents attached to the inside of the bezel. On the platinum version, the dial is still textured white, with the same sword hour and minute hands, but lacks the cross-hairs and only has Arabic numerals at the 12 and 6 o’clock hour positions. If you are in the hunt, these watches are still somewhat available, at $9,800 for steel, $20,800 for gold, and $29,000 for platinum.

As I mentioned earlier, this mens cool watches series is a collection of “watchmaker’s watches,” but in addition to that, they are truly vintage re-interpretations. The pieces take some of the best qualities of the 1958 models — the overall aesthetic, case shape, hands, and dial design — and adds them to slightly enlarged proportions, even more advanced technology, and some very interesting homages like the inner-bezel luminescence and the caseback engraving paying tribute to the International Geophysical Year. Another interesting thing to note is that the platinum variation of the watch actually has the most “vintage flair.” This could be because the series is for a relatively niche audience, and the platinum version could simply be catering the most to those who (again) know what they want and know why what they want matters.

As you can probably tell, this vintage watches has made a rather positive impression on me. As I see it, it is the timepiece for a lonely man at a dinner party: very few will recognize it, and you might only think of it when checking the time, but on the off chance there is someone else at that party with a passion for watches, you might just make yourself a new friend.

The FHH welcomes MB&F as a new partner-brand

A representative of "new MB&F watchmaking", MB&F / Maximilian Büsser & Friends joins the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, bringing the number of partner-brands to twenty-seven.

new MB&F watches

MB&F, which joined the Foundation in late 2015, takes a uniquely distinctive approach to the measurement of time, which it expresses through careful attention to the techniques of watchmaking and the endless possibilities they afford. By affiliating with the FHH, it signals its commitment to the promotion of watchmaking culture throughout the world. This has been the Foundation's mission since 2005, and one that has continued to grow through new projects in training, information and certification. Thanks to their active participation in these projects, partner-brands enjoy an international platform to help spread knowledge of watchmaking.

The work of a talented collective

With MB&F, an entirely new vision of mens cool watchmaking came into being. Each timepiece, or rather each limited-edition kinetic sculpture, is a collaborative work by some of the most talented independent designers, watchmakers and technicians of the day. A graduate of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Lausanne, Maximilian Büsser cut his teeth at Jaeger-LeCoultre, then at the head of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces before embarking on an adventure of his own in 2005. In the company of "friends", all duly credited for their contribution, he gives life to machines that tell the time in three dimensions; machines not unlike the spaceships that roam the galaxies in 1970s animated cartoons. This iconoclastic spirit, offset by a few less radical creations, is already a recognised signature in watchmaking.

The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie is especially proud to welcome this new partner-brand. Its arrival shows that as an activity built around knowledge and expertise, Fine Watchmaking is able to adopt new forms and new inspirations that further confirm its excellence.

IWC Pilot's Watches 2016

At SIHH 2016, later this month, IWC will officially unveil their new Pilot’s collection. There will be over 20 new references, inspired by historic IWC Pilot’s watches. Today we have a preview of the three most notable references, as well as a teaser of one more (the new Mark XVIII).

The Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 48 (Ref. IW510301)

IWC Big Pilot Heritage Watch

The Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 48 is inspired by the historic observer’s watch with its large case, oversized propeller-like hands, and riveted calfskin straps. The case is in titanium with a soft-iron inner case to protect against magnetic fields.

The Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 (Ref. 3240)

 IWC Pilot’s Watch Authmatic 36

Appealing to entry-level budgets, and smaller wrists, the new IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 comes in a 36 mm stainless steel case. It is shown with a slate dial, and it is also available in a silver-plated dial. It is the smallest watch in the manufacturer’s current collection. Interestingly, almost all IWC Pilot’s watches will now be available with beautifully finished Santoni leather straps, including this one.

The Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW502701)

2016 New IWC watches

"Throughout his life, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry was torn between flying and writing, between technology and poetry,” according to IWC. And so, IWC engineers designed the Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince” which unites the different worlds. They The solid gold rotor is crafted to show the famous image of the little prince standing on his tiny asteroid and regarding the heavens with wide-open eyes.

A tobacco brown dial and a calfskin strap with cream-colored ornamentalseams pay homage to Saint-Exupéry’s flying suit.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XII

Mark XVIII

IWC will launch a new Mark XVIII Pilot’s Swiss watch in 2016. The triple date display has been eliminated in favor of a giving the dial a cleaner look. Additionally, the case size has been reduced by 1mm to 40 mm. Further, the Arabic numeral “9” has been brought back. Lastly, the triangular index has be positioned at “12 o’clock,” just below the chapter ring.

Zenith - El Primero Tourbillon Watches UK

The new Zenith El Primero Tourbillon models combine the high frequency (36,000 vph) of the legendary El Primero chronograph movement developed by Zenith in 1969 with one of the most prestigious watchmaking feat, the tourbillon.

Together with the two classic models in rose gold or stainless steel with a white or black lacquered dial, Zenith created a contemporary version in brushed titanium with a slate grey dial.

This Swiss watches version features cut-out lugs and slender pushers for a much sportier look. The chronograph counters - 30-minute at 3 o'clock and 12-hour at 6 o’clock - are framed by an anthracite grey rim forming a figure eight shape that stands out against the brushed dial base. The rhodium-plated, faceted hour markers and hands are coated with black Super-LumiNova.

Zenith El Primero Tourbillon

The asymmetrical architecture the El Primero automatic chronograph calibre places the tourbillon at 11 o’clock, while its offset tourbillon carriage is revealed through a generous dial opening. The tourbillon mechanism rotating once a minute also incorporates a small seconds display, while the patented date display appears on a disc placed around the circumference of the tourbillon carriage.

The 45 mm-diameter case is water-resistant to 100 metres and features a sapphire crystal caseback to display the El Primero Calibre 4035D movement with its gold oscillating weight adorned with a "Côtes de Genève" motif.

This 381-part movement is endowed with a 50-hour power reserve and graced with meticulous finishing.

The Zenith El Primero Tourbillon models are fitted with a rubber-lined black or brown alligator leather strap fastened by a triple folding clasp. Indicative prices: Euro 65,400 / US$ 71,000 for the titanium contemporary model (ref. 95.2260.4035/21.C759), Euro 55,300 / US$ 60,000 for the classic version in stainless steel (ref. 03.2280.4035/21.C714) and Euro 75,500 / US$ 83,000 for the rose gold one (ref. 18.2280.4035/01.C713).